If you’ve ever gone on Pinterest or Instagram, then you know about Morocco’s famous blue city, Chefchaouen, nicknamed the “blue pearl of Morocco.”

Before ever visiting Morocco I was well acquainted with those gorgeous blue alleyways and blue-washed buildings. But I also always wondered about the blue city in Morocco – is it really so blue? Does the whole city look like that, or just a few streets? I was so curious!

Guys, this is the truth about Chefchaouen:

It is beautiful! And very, very blue.

Chefchaouen – Blue City Morocco

Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 in the Rif mountains by Jews and Moors fleeing Spain. I heard a lot of different (some quite unbelievable) theories about why Chefchaouen is blue. Some say it was painted blue by the Jews who settled there after fleeing Hitler, others say it’s to keep the mosquitos away, while some just said it represents the color of the sea.

I’m not sure which version is true, but it seems to have worked out well for Chefchaouen, as it sure looks good blue!

I also hadn’t realized that Chefchaouen is up in the mountains – the surrounding landscape is amazing. I really wish that we would have had time to do some hiking during our visit, but we only stayed two nights, and the first day was incredibly rainy. You can see my full two week Morocco itinerary here. 

It was also really, really cold. Like, if you’re heading to Morrocco’s blue city in March bring some sweaters, just in case. The first day in Chefchaouen was actually so cold and rainy that Danielle and I had to escape underground into a local hammam, or bathhouse.

There’s nothing like getting scrubbed raw by a stranger to warm you on a chilly day.

I won’t say I loved the hammam, because scrubbing = pain, but I did really enjoy the hanging out naked with local women part. But did I mention the pain? On the one hand, my skin is still crazy soft from the ordeal, but on the other hand, it really was an ordeal. T

he entire day afterwards I felt like I had gotten some sort of horrible sunburn. I don’t know, do we really need to get rid of dead skin? No, like I’m seriously asking – do we?

Luckily for my tender skin, the sun came out for our second day in Chefchaouen so no more hammam for me (at least until we got to Fes!).

Danielle and I split up to explore and take photos on our own (does anyone else feel less awkward taking photos solo?) and I officially fell in love with Chefchaouen. I love how quiet and relaxed the city is, and it really is just so ridiculously pretty.

Chefchaouen is a perfect place to wander and take photos. As it’s a little far from the bigger cities which means prices are higher, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for shopping (though you won’t be hassled as much here as in the cities!) – mostly it’s just a perfect place to relax.

Danielle and I spent most of our time chilling in the local restaurants and browsing through the markets. We didn’t worry too much about seeing any particular sights – instead, we just wandered aimlessly and took in the beauty of this blue city Morocco had just introduced us to.

Chefchaouen is one of the most touristy places I visited in Morocco so two days there definitely felt like enough, but it’s so beautiful and unique that it was still worth the journey up into the mountains to see Morocco’s magical blue city.

A lot of people also only do day trips to the area. You can easily visit from one of the nearby cities on a tour. Here are some to get you started:

• From Fes – Fes is around 3+ hours away, and this tour will give you about 4 hours of free time around Chefchaouen. Check here for prices and availability
• From Tangier – Tangier is around 2+ hours away, and you’ll have about 4-5 hours to explore. Check here for prices and availability
• From Rabat – Rabat is around 4 hours away, and it’ll give you about 2 hours in the city. Check here for prices and availability

We had dinner one night at Chez Hicham, which was amazing. We sat upstairs, where they have a lovely outdoor terrace, which is probably nice in good weather, but since it was so cold and rainy we sat inside next to the fireplace. It was super cosy, and we enjoyed having a fancier meal in the town.

This might sound weird, but I highly recommend the “cheese salad.” It’s a salad topped with tons of goat’s cheese, walnuts, raisins, and all sorts of yummy stuff. Danielle and I both secretly admitted to each other that it was probably our favorite dish in Morocco. And since sharing that people have written saying they took my advice and agree – it really is an amazing dish!

We even ordered it again for lunch the next day at a different restaurant – so remember: cheese salad in Chefchaouen.

And if you’re wondering what to wear as a female traveler in Morocco, you basically want to keep your knees, shoulders, midriff, back, and chest (and elbows and calves in conservative areas) covered. You can find more information about female travel in Morocco and what to wear in Morocco here.

 After spending a lovely time in Essaouira – did I already mention how relaxing this place is? – we took the bus to Marrakech. This was our last stop in Morocco and we felt that it was a nice combination with relaxed Essaouira. We spent two days in the pink city of Morocco, by far not enough time to see everything there is to see. So, I am not going to tell you about the best things to do in Marrakech. My stay was just too short for that. Instead, I focus on my impressions of this city. What struck me, what surprised me and what were the things I did not like. Here are 10 useful & fun things to know before visiting Marrakech.

1. AN ARTISTIC WELCOME AWAITS AT THE BUS STATION

Let’s start with something light. Marrakech has street art! One of the best murals can be found in front of the train station in Marrakech. A life-size black and white portrait of an Aziz trader against an orange background, painted by the German artist Hendrik Beikirch. His work is part of a series of wall paintings under the name ‘Tracing Morocco’. Beikirch immortalized the faces of the Moroccan men and women he met during his stay in the country. The artist has not only worked in Morocco, you can find his ‘faces’ all around the world. Also in the Netherlands, I have seen his work in Goes.

2. PARLEZ-VOUS FRANÇAIS?

I do not speak French and that is a huge disadvantage in Morocco. Apart from Darija (Moroccan Arabic) French is a popular language. It is almost expected that every tourist is able to speak this language. A lot of people hardly speak any English. Basic knowledge of French can definitely help with ordering dishes in restaurants or shopping in the souk.

3. JEMAA EL-FNA IS HORROR FOR ANIMAL LOVERS

Maybe this sounds a bit harsh, but there is no other way to put it. This square annex market square is a weird combination of innocent juice sellers and shameless animal entertainment. There seems to be no limit to what you can do with animals. Monkeys on a chain, a dozen snakes on picknick blanket, horse carriages lined up too close behind each other to fit more carriages in. All with the purpose to entertain tourists, but at the expense of animals. After five minutes looking around, I decided to get the hell out of there. I did not want to be part of this tourist trap.

4. AVOID TAKING PHOTOS OF LOCALS

Taking photos in Marrakech can be challenging. Locals often do not want to be in your photo at all. They will protest or, even worse, ask for money for the picture (I did not experience this myself, but I’ve heard about it). I like taking photos of street scenes, alleys, and historical buildings. But that is hard if you have to avoid snapping locals in your photos. This means that you have to wait, and wait even more, for the perfect moment. I actually have never been to a country where taking a normal photo was so challenging. As soon as someone thinks that he or she is in your picture, they will cover their face, wave, and start shouting ‘No!’.

5. EXPECT QUEUES IN MARRAKECH

Maybe I was spoiled by Essaouira, but what struck me the most in Marrakech were the large groups of tourists. And of course, all those tourists want to go to the same sights, so we spent a lot of time standing in queues. Queued up to buy tickets, queued up inside to actually see the sight. During our stay, we visited the Majorelle Garden and the Saadian Tombe. Both beautiful sights, but filled with tourists. At the Garden, I even saw garden staff offering their service to take photos, from a spot no one was allowed to go to.

I get that more and more people are traveling and I am also one of those tourists, but for me it ruined the experience a bit. Then again, we were there at the end of peak season (September), so maybe when you visit it in winter or spring it is better.

6. ADVICE FOR THE LADIES: DRESS APPROPRIATELY

Marrakech is a popular destination, but sometimes it feels like tourists forget in which country they are. Morocco is a predominantly Islamic country. This means that people dress conservatively: covered shoulders and legs. Ladies, you can leave your short pants and tank tops at home. Instead bring thin shawls and long pants with you. As a tourist you already attract a lot of attention, don’t stand out in a negative way.

7. THE MEDINA OF MARRAKECH IS A MENTAL CHALLENGE

Dusty roads, narrow city gates, a continuous stream of scooters and a lack of sidewalks or evening lightning. The medina of Marrakech sometimes reminded me of India. Busy, chaotic and a bit overwhelming, but without the cows. In the medina you always have to be alert and pay attention to everything around you. If you don’t, you risk getting hit by a scooter. It does not help that the medina, and especially the souks, feels like a maze. Luckily, offline navigation apps like Here Maps or Maps.me offer some relieve. The downfall: you spend more time looking at your phone instead of monitoring everything around you. My boyfriend almost walked into a snake charmer when he was looking on his phone.

8. UNSOLICITED FRIENDLY ADVICE (SCAMS)

The most unpleasant side of Marrakech: the young Moroccans offering ‘free friendly advice’. It is not friendly and not free. It is a tourist trap and it goes like this. Young guys approach tourists to help them to find the sight they are looking for. They will say: ‘I am not a guide, I don’t want to sell you something. I want to help you’. But they do not want to help you, they want money. They will take detours to lead you to the sight and then they demand money. If you don’t give money or you refuse their help, they will get angry or pushy. And this is not the only one, these are the other tourist traps that we have experienced:

• The road is shut: young Moroccans tell tourists that the road they want to take is shut, but they know an alternative. The idea is that they will guide you and then demand money for the service.
• Practicing English: someone approaches you in a friendly way and tells you that he wants to practice his English. After a short chit-chat, he takes you a mini private tour around the medina and drops you off at a shop. Here you will receive tea and the owner will show the best products. The idea is that tourists buy something and the ‘guide’ will get a commission.

Simple solution for all this: use the offline navigation apps on your phone, say ‘no, thank you’ to the boys and keep on walking. They will get angry and start shouting, because they don’t accept no, but at a certain point they will walk away.

9. THE MEDINA REWARDS THE ONES WHO POWER THROUGH

Once you get more and more used to the chaos, you will start to see the beauty of Marrakech. The medina actually does have a beautiful side. For instance, the beautiful red-orange colored streets with fairytale-like doors. Or the typical green, yellow and blue floral tiles that you see at every sight, no matter if you visit the Ali Ben Youssef Madrasa (temporarily closed) or the Saadian Tombs. And don’t the forget the amazing wood carvings on the bows that reminded me of the Alhambra in Spain. Marrakech is truly charming.

10. GIVE YOURSELF A BREAK AND RECHARGE AT A RIAD

Marrakech can be overwhelming for your senses. Choosing the right accommodation is crucial. A place where you can leave everything for what it is, take a step back, and relax. My advice: go for a riad. This is a traditional house built around a closed-off courtyard. And that courtyard makes the riad an ideal accommodation, because you can still be outside in the medina but without the hustle and bustle of the streets. A perfect spot to recharge, read a book, or drink endless cups of mint tea. We stayed at Riad Villa Almeria and I can highly recommend it.

Do you want to go to Marrakech?

When you think of Morocco, you are probably thinking about crowds, chaos and pushy vendors. Not exactly a destination you have in mind for a relaxed beach holiday. But that’s where you go wrong. Morocco is also a perfect destination to enjoy a beach vacation. With a more than 1800 kilometer-long coastline, there are plenty of gorgeous beaches. I recommend going to Essaouira. It has a broad beach, a modern promenade, an old medina full of colorful alleys, and no pushy vendors bothering you. Here’s my list of 10 great things to do in Essaouira, plus a few practical tips.

10 WONDERFUL THINGS TO DO IN ESSAOUIRA + PRACTICAL TIPS

1. EXPLORE THE GORGEOUS MEDINA

The old walled Medina (the Arabic word for a city) is the biggest attraction of Essaouira. This is what makes this city so charming. The medina is built in the eighteenth century. Sultan Mohammed Ben Abdellah wanted to turn Essaouira into an important port city. And his plan worked, Essaouira became a stop on the trading route Timbuktu – Europe. Eventually, Casablanca took over the role of port city and Essaouira turned into a relaxed fishing town.

SUPER RELAXED VIBES

Relaxed and tranquil are actually the best words to describe Essaouira nowadays. The vendors do not bother the tourists too much and it is not that busy. Visit the souk, wander into the alleys, walk along the wall, and make a stop somewhere for a cup of sweet mint tea. Blue and white are the colors that dominate the medina, which made me think of cities in Portugal. During the Middle Ages, the city was actually shortly run by the Portuguese and they named it Mogador.

2. TAKE A NICE LONG WALK ON THE BEACH

Essaouira is known as the Windy City and is therefore attractive for water sports. During my preparation I read that chilling on the beach would not be an option. The wind would constantly throw sand in your face. And indeed, the wind was annoying. After a beach day, I would be covered in sand. Luckily there’s a simple solution: just take a good shower after a day at the beach and you’re good. Also, the nice thing about the wind was that the temperature in Essaouira was quite enjoyable. It was not too hot.

EXTRA TIPS FOR THE BEACH:

• Unfortunately, I saw quite some plastic waste at the beach. This is not only polluting the beach, but it can also have deadly consequences for animals. So why not combine a long beach walk with picking up plastic waste? There are enough trash bins at the promenade to throw it away.
• There are quite some men riding around on horses or camels at the beach who offer rides to tourists. Are you an animal lover? Then do not climb onto the back of these animals, especially when the animal is looking poorly treated or tired. Do not use animals as entertainment.
• There is also another type of men walking around at the beach: the one with the plates with happy cookies. They like to walk up to young people because they like to get high, right? Luckily they are not pushy at all. When you say no, they easily walk away.

3. BOOK A HOTEL WITH A POOL

Chilling in a bikini at the beach in Morocco is personally for me a no go. Enough tourists do it, but I don’t think it’s respectful. Morocco is for the most part a Muslim country and even though not every Moroccan woman is wearing a hijab, I most definitely did not see any local women walking around in bikinis. The best thing to do is to book a hotel with a pool. Then you can privately sunbathe there. However, there are not many hotels in Essaouira that have a pool. We booked our stay at Cote Ocean Mogador. It has a great location at the Mohammed V promenade, big rooms, and a pool.

4. WATCHING BOATS AT THE FISHER PORT OF ESSAOUIRA 

I have to admit, I was not a huge fan of the fishing port. I do not eat fish, I hate the smell, and watching people filleting fish on the street is not my cup of tea. But what I did like about the fishing port were the characteristic boats. They have a lovely deep blue color and are a nice contrast with the brown colors of the city walls and towers.

5. GET ACTIVE: TAKE A LESSON SURFING OR GO SUPPING

The wind is a big part of Essaouira and the water sports are grateful for it. Every day the sea is filled with professionals doing their thing, but as a beginner you are also in the right place. There are plenty of surfing shops with surfing lessons for beginners. My boyfriend took a beginner’s lesson and he loved it. The two of us also tried out Stand Up Paddling and that was already quite the challenge I can say. The tide was pretty strong which made it easy to drift away without noticing it.

We paid 275 Dirham (25 euros) for a surfing lesson (2 hours) for 1 person. Renting 2 Stand Up Paddleboards cost us 165 Dirham (15 euros). 

6. ENJOY THE ICONIC VIEW AT SKALA DU PORT

Are you looking for the best view of the walled medina? Then I recommend going to Skala du Port. This old watchtower gives you an amazing view – through a sky filled with seagulls – at walled Essaouira. This is also the place where you can find the ‘hole in the wall’ view, the most iconic view of the city. They even installed a special stepladder so that everyone can take that iconic shot. Please note that that there is a different entrance fee for international visitors. Locals pay 10 Dirham (around 90 euro cents), international visitors pay more: 60 Dirham (around 5,50 euros).

7. WALK THE WALL: SKALA DE LA VILLE

Now you’ve seen the walled city from a distance, it is time to take a walk on the wall itself. To find the entrance to the wall, go to Skala de la Ville. This part of the city can be quite busy with organized tourist groups, because there is no entrance fee here to climb the wall. What also might play a role in its popularity: this was a filming location for Game of Thrones.

8. LOVE FOR ESSAOUIRA’S CATS

It is hard not to notice it: the many street cats. These furry friends are practically everywhere, sleeping in the sun and enjoying every bit of attention from tourists. They are probably more active in the morning when the new fish arrives in the port. A perfect moment for the cats to hunt for the pieces that no one wants. In general, the cats looked pretty healthy and I think they are often fed by locals. I even saw a small cat house in the streets of the medina. One thing is for sure, there is a lot of love for Essaouira’s cats, from locals and tourists.

9. SPOT STREET ART IN THE SOUK

Essaouira also has some decent street art. I saw most of it in the side alleys of the main Souk street. Some murals looked quite old. The paint was often flaked and you really have to use your imagination to guess what the works used to look like. I think the salty sea wind has something to do with the state of the art. Street art itself is always something temporary as it can get painted over, but in Essaouira, works can disappear a lot quicker.

10. GET A SUNSET DRINK AT CAFE TAROS

Feeling like ordering a beer or a glass of wine? This is not always easy in Morocco as a lot of restaurants do not have an alcohol license or alcohol is pretty expensive. If you want to grab a beer, your best bet is the rooftop bars. Here consuming alcohol (haram in Islam) is less visible to the general public. The most popular place to have a drink is Cafe Taros, close to the fisher port. The price for a beer is still quite high (around 4 euros), but it is a nice place for sunset drinks.

Essaouira is a port city and resort on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. Its medina (old town) is protected by 18th-century seafront ramparts called the Skala de la Kasbah, which were designed by European engineers. Old brass cannons line the walls, and there are ocean views. Strong "Alizée" trade winds make the city’s crescent beach popular for surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. ― Google